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THERE ARE TWO LEOTARD PATTERNS. One is for use with two way stretch lycra (this fabric stretches the same amount in each direction). This two way stretch pattern makes a leotard that is pulled on through the scoop neck. Two way stretch leotard can be sewn almost entirely on the serger. Serge all seams or sew with a narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch.
The other pattern is for use with one way stretch fabric such as knit panne velvet (one way stretch fabrics stretch easily in one direction and barely at all in the other direction). The one way stretch leotard pattern is also pulled through the scoop neck but it must be cut with the stretch going around the body.